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Now recovering from years of turbulence under the genocidal Khmer Rouge regime, Cambodia is slowly rebuilding itself; the first faltering steps towards a civil society are being taken

Angkor OR Wat? The peace dividend: the ancient capital of the Khmer Empire now teems with tourists. Here are some tips for getting the best from one of Asia's great monuments - and a different way to get there from Phnom Penh, the capital. From Battambang the journey upriver then across the Tonle Sap lake towards Angkor Wat is a spellbinding progression through floating communities of fishing people, a vision of a flat, watery world without dry land.

Confronting the demons. Phnom Penh tour guide Bun Nguon knows every step of the bone-shaking road journey up Route 5 between Battambang and the capital: from the Khmer Rouge labour camps of the Cardamom Mountains, to the southwest, he trudged 400 kilometres home to pick up the pieces of his life.

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